Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Cartagena: A Touch of Old Spain

Marelvy holding the Cartagena poster created by her husband
For the port stop of Cartagena, we arranged a private tour with Marelvy Peña-Hall and her daughter, Sheila.  Sheila led us from the dock to a comfortable van that would carry us, Mary & Charlie, and another family from the ship on our city tour.  Marelvy got the tour off to a great start by presenting each family with a beautiful poster, created by her husband, which commemorated Cartagena’s Bicentennial of Independence in 2011.

View of Cartagena from La Popa
Our first stop on a tour was La Popa, the highest point in Cartagena where we had a fabulous view of the city below.  We were surprised by the number of skyscrapers in the modern city.  Marelvy explained that the government is currently offering new hotels a special incentive to come here: 30 years tax-free!

La Virgen de la Candelaria 
We walked inside the convent of “Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria” entering a lovely flower-filled cloister.  Inside the chapel was the figurine of “La Virgen de la Candelaria”, the patroness of the city.  La Virgen is much revered -- she is carried thru the streets of Cartagena during religious celebrations, and the winding road up Mt. Popa to the convent includes Stations of the Cross for the faithful, who hike up on certain holidays.

The "taxi motorcycles" of Cartagena
As we drove into the Old City, we got to see a bit of local life in Cartagena – lots of colorful buildings and loads of motorcycles. Motorcycles operate as 1-person taxis cruising through the city looking for customers; the driver carries an extra helmet while cruising thru the city (helmets are required for motorcyclists by law).  When a fare is encountered, pay is exchanged just like a taxi for hire, and the cycle takes his passenger to the required destination. 

Fortress of San Felipe
We did some shopping in a charming arcade that was once an army barracks.  Then we took a look at the fortress of San Felipe, one of the military wonders of the world.  During the Spanish occupation, Cartagena served as the warehouse of the empire storing all the Spanish “acquisitions” (such as gold) before it was shipped back to Spain, so the city needed to be well-protected.  The city also suffered thru 200 years of the Spanish Inquisition when people were tortured and killed for minor offenses like reading banned books or for crimes they were accused of but never committed.

Flower-filled street in the Old City of Cartagena
The highlight of the day was wandering the streets of the Old City.  What a beautiful place with colorful plazas every few blocks and buildings adorned with wooden balconies holding cascading flowers.   Many of the lovely old buildings are former convents, restored and converted to hotels.  

Elegant church in Cartegena's Old City
Columbia is a fascinating country, the 4th largest in South America, boasting ports on both the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean.  Their main products are organic beef, cacao, emeralds, coffee, and sugarcane.  Many of you may equate Cartagena with bad boy Pablo Escabar, the ruthless cocaine drug lord who had a home in the area; happily, he was killed off in 1993 and the drug trade has all but gone away.  Columbia has become quiet since then, and Cartagena has earned the title of UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a worthy city for tourism. 

Fisherman "statue" in the Old City of Cartagena
According to Marelvy and Sheila, drug traders are still around, but now they keep a low profile, and the former crime and violence associated with the drug world no longer exists.  After all the damage caused by the drug traffickers, the government launched major anti-drug campaigns, and apparently they worked because Sheila said domestic drug use is very low. 


The Old City of Cartagena bursts with color from the ever-present flowers and the brightly dressed vendors.  Lots of character too with mimes perfectly disguised as statues of fishermen and lots of unusual sculptures.  Rather than attempting to describe it, here are some faces of Cartagena:

Lovely cloister in the convent of Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria
Graceful cathedral in the Old City

Colorful local homes in a typical Cartagena neighborhood

Real life in Cartagena

Marelvy and Mary walking thru the Old City


Vendors taking a break in the Old City

This vendor is as colorful as the fruit she has to sell

Brilliant colors dominate the local garb

Friendly shopkeeper

Creative vendor selling homemade horns


Atmospheric street in the Old City

Strolling thru the Old City

Charlie with one of the metal sculptures
on a plaza in Cartagena

Mary and Anne with another metal sculpture

Selling fresh fruit in the Old City

Old City vendor

Shopping in Cartagena

Colorful merchandise for sale in Cartagena

Artwork captures the colors of Cartagena

With Mary & Charlie beside the Coral Princess

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